SCUBA Key Largo? Six Reasons Why You Want To!

My first Key Largo scuba trip ended most unexpectedly scratching the back of a four-foot nurse shark’s back for 10 minutes. As a new diver, I found myself on Captain Slate’s Creature Feature dive with my local scuba group. Initially, I wasn’t too thrilled about this dive. I was still nervous about sharks. But this experience became one of my all-time favorite scuba memories.

The back-scratch was entirely the shark’s idea. She nestled in the sand right under my outstretched hand, turning it into her backscratcher. For the next 10 minutes, she circled me, repeating this behavior over and over. After that, I was completely hooked on diving with sharks.

I’ve been diving Key Largo for ten years, and in that time, I’ve experienced some truly unforgettable scuba moments. Like the day I was inside the Spiegel Grove wreck, gazing out a window as a bull shark glided by—it felt like I was the one in the aquarium, and the shark was the curious onlooker. Or when I dove through the last of Key Largo’s great Elkhorn coral colonies as a thunderstorm raged overhead, creating an electrifying light show underwater.

There’s an incredible Key Largo scuba diving trip waiting for you. I’m here to help you make it happen!

This is your insider guide to Key Largo scuba diving, crafted from years of experience, time spent with locals, and a few hard-learned lessons.

Article Summary

1. Key Largo SCUBA Diving Shops
2. Key Largo Diving – What Not To Miss
3. Where is Key Largo?
4. Key Largo Hotels
5. Best Places to Eat in Key Largo
6. Things To Do In And Around Key Largo
7. A Few Last Things

1. Key Largo SCUBA Diving Shops

Key Largo has a LOT of scuba shops.

Some shops are smaller and more personal, and others are big “cattle boats” full of divers. Most are somewhere in between.

I love being on a boat with 6-8 divers, but they are more expensive and harder to find.

Most dive boats average around 15-20 people depending on the season.

On my first trip to Key Largo, I experienced a “cattle boat” of 25+ divers, with another “cattle boat” (from the same shop) of 30 snorkelers next to us.

At one point, I thought there were more people in the water than fish.

I steer away from these operations unless I am with a large group, or they offer a specialty dive I want to participate in. However, sometimes they can’t be avoided.

Some dive shops have guided dives (by a divemaster) while other shops keep the divemaster on the boat and let buddy pairs go off exploring the reef or wreck on their own.

If you have a preference, make sure you ask this question before booking your dives.

Recommended Dive Shops

1. Captain Slates, I love their weekend creature feature dives. They are in Tavernier on the south side of Key Largo.

2. Horizon Divers have a larger and smaller boat, well known for going to wrecks.

3. Silent World has a maximum of 16 divers on their boats.

4. Sailfish Scuba has guided dives with a 1/7 ratio and free photos included in the price.

5. Quiescence books private scuba or snorkel trips with no more than 6 people on a boat.

2. Key Largo Diving, What Not to Miss

Key Largo is home to the first underwater state park and the only living coral reef in the continental U.S.

Christ Underwater is probably the most famous dive site. It is a statue of a 25-foot-tall Jesus. It’s a popular and crowded dive site for both scuba divers and snorkelers. If you go, try to get on the first AM boat.

The second most famous sight is the USS Spiegel Grove. This is a sunken ship that’s longer than two football fields and full of marine life. It’s the third-largest underwater wreck in the world and my favorite wreck to scuba dive. This dive is intended for advanced divers and can be canceled or rescheduled due to high currents.

Key Largo is part of an underwater shipwreck trail (a mix of natural and intentionally sunk), including the Spiegel Grove, Duane, and Bentwood dive sites.

Molasses Reef is where history meets beauty. It’s got stunning coral formations and even a sunken Spanish ship from way back in the 1740s.

Pickles Reef got its name from pickle barrels lost here in a shipwreck, and today it’s a popular dive spot.

Conch Wall is more of a slope than a wall. This is a drift dive and one of my favorite sites.

Night Diving in Key Largo is like stepping into a whole new world. Expect to see glowing creatures, octopuses, and echinoderms like crabs, brittle stars, and lobsters come out when the sun goes down.

The sharks in Key Largo are the friendly kind! You might bump into nurse sharks or reef sharks. I am a fan of Captain Slate’s creature feature Nurse Shark Dives. Specialty shark dives are offered throughout the Keys

Specialty dives (depending on the season) include lobstering and spearfishing. Equipment is typically available for rent or purchase from the dive shop.

Coral restoration dives in Key Largo offer divers a unique opportunity to actively participate in rebuilding fragile coral ecosystems, guided by nonprofit organizations like the Coral Restoration Foundation and Reef Renewal USA.

Science Central: The Aquarius Reef Base in Key Largo is the world’s only underwater research lab and is used by NASA to train astronauts. It is illegal to get too close, but you can see parts of the base from several different nearby dive sites.

3. Where is Key Largo?

The Florida Keys are divided into three sections, the Upper Keys, Middle Keys, and Lower Keys.

The Upper Keys are the northernmost part of the Florida Keys, starting with Key Largo and stretching down about ½ hour south to Islamorada.

This section is your first taste of the laid-back island life, and it’s a short drive from Miami—about an hour or so depending on traffic.

Key Largo is situated between the Everglades National Park and the Atlantic Ocean.

A little-known fact is that Key Largo was the setting for the 1948 Ernest Hemingway-inspired movie, “Key Largo,” which starred Humphrey Bogart and Lauren Bacall.

The exterior of the Caribbean Club was featured in the movie. The movie is likely how Key Largo got its “official” name in 1951. Previously it was known as Rock Harbor.

4. Key Largo Hotels

When diving, I stay at less expensive hotels. Key Largo is small and there aren’t many “budget-friendly” options. Prices vary widely. The most expensive times are holidays and three-day weekends.

I have stayed in Airbnb’s, but not in the Key Largo area. Unless you have a group or are staying a week or more – the extra fees aren’t worth it.

I’ve stayed at the Hampton Inn Key Largo, Holiday Inn Key Largo, and Waterside Suites. All three are “budget-friendly” hotels in Key Largo and pretty much the same. A sterile box hotel room with one or 2 beds and a mini fridge. A working ice machine is a bonus.

My criteria for a hotel room are cleanliness, a comfortable bed, preferably on the first floor, and located close to the dive boat.

Marriott Courtyard Key Largo is a popular choice.  I have not stayed here, but my non-diving friend has recommended it. She likes the pool area and hangs out there while her husband is off scuba diving.

A higher-end hotel is the Bay Harbor Lodge. It has a nice location, a good atmosphere, and is owned by a local. At some point, I will splurge and stay at this hotel.

Sunset Cove Beach Resort is my favorite budget option. It’s not the typical box hotel but a series of brightly colored bungalows giving with a ton of old-school “Key’s charm”.

Plus, it has a great location with a small sandy beach on the bayside of Key Largo. However, the rooms are more like a cabin than a hotel room. There is A/C, WIFI, a bed, and a small bathroom but not much else.

Getting takeout for dinner and watching the sunset over the bay, just a few feet from your bungalow is worth it.

Amoray Resort is the top choice for staying and diving at the same location. It is a combination of a hotel and an onsite dive shop.

The boat leaves a few feet from your hotel room. They offer packages and specialty theme dive weekends (like coral restoration).

The least expensive option is to stay at one of the hotels in Homestead, about 20-30 minutes north of Key Largo.

I stayed at the Florida City Best Western on my first trip to Key Largo, 10 years ago. Traffic is light early in the morning so the ½ hour dive to the dive shop wasn’t a noticeable inconvenience.

Given the choice, I prefer to stay in Key Largo. Over the years, I have spent a night or two in Homestead on last-minute dive trips to Key Largo.

Key Largo has several RV parks & campgrounds- John Pennekamp State Park, Key Largo Kampground, Key’s Palms RV Resort, and Sun Outdoors RV Resort.
I have been tempted to car camp at one of these places, and it still may happen one day.

Jules Undersea Lodge wins the prize for the most unique hotel – it’s located at the bottom of a small lagoon. You have to scuba dive to get in and out of this hotel.

5. Best Places to Eat – Key Largo

After some Key Largo scuba diving, where should you eat in that isn’t an overpriced tourist trap? Or if it is a tourist trap at least it has good food!  

Days in the Keys start at sunrise and end early, so most places don’t stay open late. Additionally, not all restaurants can accommodate large groups.

Peak dining (and wait time) is always around sunset with any kind of water view – get there early, plan to eat at the bar, or expect a wait.

Try calling ahead to see if you can make a reservation.

Pinecrest Bakery – I love this place. This Key Largo bakery has great Cuban sandwiches, guava pastries, and café con leche, and it’s open 24 hours (unheard of in the Keys!). A Keys trip is not complete without a stop at this bakery.

Alabama Jacks – Off the beaten track, no frills, local color, & best conch fritters in town

The Fish House & Hobo’s Café – Both recommended by the locals

Key Largo Fisheries – A commercial fish house with a restaurant. You can’t get any fresher seafood than this. Order the FL lobster roll or FL shrimp. Check the hours before you go, the restaurant is not open late.

Bayside Gourmet – Order the Grouper Ruben

Denny’s Latin Café for good Cuban Food at a good price

Mrs. Mac’s Kitchen – A popular tourist spot. I ate here on my first trip to Key Largo and I can attest that the food, service, and key lime pie are all good. It’s worth experiencing it if there isn’t a long wait. There is more than one location.

Sundowners for the view (make reservations or get there early for sunset)

Sharkeys Sharkbite Grill is my go-to place for burgers and fries (fish tacos are good too). Try their smokey mango margarita, it’s delicious!  The restaurant is good-sized, has a fun atmosphere, and is on a canal.

Publix Super Market  – No joke, the deli has cheap, delicious sandwiches. Publix is always my fast, easy, and affordable “food-to-go” spot.

Ask your divemaster – I always ask someone from the shop/boat crew what their favorite “worth-it” restaurants are.  Everyone likes to talk about food.

6. Things To Do In and Around Key Largo

Besides scuba diving Key Largo, if a dive gets cancelled due to weather or you want to go explore the area, these are all “worth-it” destinations.

The History of Diving  Museum commits to the preservation and education of divers in South Florida and the Keys. This place is a great “backup plan” if your dive gets canceled due to bad weather conditions.

Dagny Johnson State Park has a one or two-mile hike option and offers the chance to see a Florida saltwater crocodile (only found in the FL Keys).

Shell World if you want to shop for souvenirs. It’s been in business for over 50 years. The store has a large selection of products including local Florida items and a wide range of shells for purchase.

Divers Direct in Key Largo. It’s a favorite SCUBA shop that gets way too much of my money.

Drive the Overseas Highway! You are driving on old coral reefs (all the Keys were ancient coral reefs at one point). It is one of the most beautiful dives in the world, and the views are spectacular.

Laura Quinn Wild Bird Sanctuary is an “off the beaten track” place that not many people know about. It’s a beautiful little park on the bay that has over 60 rescued birds. It’s free (but they ask for a $10 donation) and open every day from sunrise to sunset. This attraction is located about 10 minutes south of Key Largo.

Theater of the Sea operational and family-owned since the 1940s, resides in what was once a rock quarry for Henry Flagler’s Railroad, established in the early 1900s. This attraction is located about 20 minutes south of Key Largo.

“Off-the-beaten-track” places to stop on your way in or out of the Keys

These attractions are in the Homestead/Florida City/Redlands area about 30 minutes north of Key Largo.

The Flamingo Entrance to the Everglades National Park takes about an hour from Key Largo. Most of the drive is through the Everglades. There is a visitor center, with boat tours available. Rooms and tents are for rent too.

Robert is Here Fruit Stand and Farm (make sure you ask about the name). In the area since 1959 this farm has FL local food products, famous milkshakes, and local produce.

Fruit and Spice Park – Tour, sample, and purchase exotic fruit.

Knaus Berry Farm – A produce farm run by Mennonites and famous for its cinnamon buns and blueberry milkshakes.

Schnebly Redland’s Winery is the southernmost winery in the US. This winery focuses on sweet wine from tropical fruits—also, the home of the Miami Brewing Company.

Monkey Jungle – Built in the 1930s and boasts it’s a place where “where the primates roam free”

7. A Few Last Things

Experience the best of Key Largo Scuba Diving!

Key Largo is home to manatees, the only reef system in the continental US, and the only underwater base in the United States, and you can dive the third largest wreck in the world.

Diving is available year-round, offering hundreds of diving options for beginners and advanced divers.

This is your only guide to the best Key Largo dive shops, food, hotels, and area attractions.

If you enjoyed this article, make sure to check out my Islamorada ultimate dive travel guide, Key Largo’s charming “little sister”.

Bookmark this site, follow on social media @reesehwanderwild, and let’s keep exploring together.

See you back here soon!

Remember, the best stories happen underwater.